Frequently Asked Questions

To ensure a safe and smooth grooming experience, here's what I'll need from you:
Proof of Vaccination For everyone's safety, your pup must be up-to-date on vaccinations. Tags alone are not valid proof - please provide vet records (digital or paper) before the appointment. Puppies under 4 months of age are not required to have a rabies vaccination.
Clear Working Space I bring a foldable grooming table and bathtub, so I'll need a flat area that's at least 4 ft by 6 ft. This space should be inside, well-lit, and free from distractions (no off-leash pets or young children nearby during grooming time).

Start early! I recommend scheduling your puppy's first grooming appointment as soon as they've had their first round of vaccinations (usually around 8 - 10 weeks old).
Getting your puppy used to the sights, sounds, and sensations of grooming early on helps them build confidence and comfort with the process. The first few grooms are all about gentle introdcution - lots of positive reinforcement, short sessions, and patience.

It depends on your pup's needs and your style preferences! If you'd like to keep your dog in a longer or fluffier haircut, I recommend regular, recurring appointments to prevent matting and keep them looking their best.
Routine also helps anxious or shy dogs - the more consistently I see them, the more familiar they become with me, my tools, and the grooming process. Over time, grooming just becomes a normal, stress-free part of their life.
Bonus: I offer a discount for clients who book recurring appointments, because consistency is key to happy dogs and easier grooms!

Proper brushing at home can really help maintain your dog's coat between grooms and avoid unexpected shave-downs!
What You'll Need:
  • A long pin slicker brush
  • A metal comb
  • A detangling spray - never brush a dry coat! It can cause breakage and discomfort.
Technique: Line Brushing Use the line brushing method: part the coat in sections and brush small layers from the skin outward. Mats form at the base of the hair, close to the skin, and brushing only the top layer won't remove them. There are several YouTube videos on the subject, but I'll link a tutorial on how to line brush here.
The Comb Test After brushing a section, run your comb through it. If it glides smoothly from root to tip with no snags, you're doing great! If the comb gets caught, mats are still present - and if I can't get a comb through, my clipper guards can't either, which means the coat may need to be cut shorter for your dog's comfort.

It depends on the condition of the coat. If your dog if pelted (severely matted close to the skin), the safest and most humane option is a shave-down. Mats pull tightly on the skin and can cause pain, bruising, or sores - so when clipping them out, I work very slowly and carefully to avoid injury. This adds significant time to the groom.
If de-matting is possible, it still requires extra time, patience, and care - especially for dogs with sensitive skin or anxiety.
Because of the added time involved, I charge a $60 matting fee. This is not a de-matting fee - it's a time-based fee that applies whether I shave a pelted coat or gently work through tangles. If you do not agree to this fee, or do not consent to a shave-down when necessary, I will respectfully decline to groom your dog for their safety and well-being.
My goal is to keep pets safe, comfortable, and stress-free - even if that means starting over with a shorter haircut.

If your dog has fleas, I can remove the ones currently on their body during the grooming session - but grooming alone will not prevent reinfestation. Fleas lay hundreds of eggs that fall into you home, bedding, and yard, which can lead to a new outbreak within days or weeks.
Treating your home is just as important as treating your dog. I recommend a thorough cleaning, vacuuming, washing bedding, and using safe home treatments.
For long-term protection, speak to your vet about a prescription-strength flea and tick preventative. Over-the-counter products are often not strong enough to stop the flea life cycle.
If your dog is heavily infested, I may refer you to a veterinarian before grooming. Severe infestations can lead to serious health concerns like tapeworms, anemia, and flea-borne illnesses (such as Bartonella). In these cases, your dog's health comes first - and vet care is the safest next step.

Long nails can cause real pain and long-term damage. When a dog's nails get too long, they start to push back into the nail bed with every step. Over time, this can lead to:
  • Painful, splayed feet
  • Reduced traction, making slips and injuries more likely
  • Strained tendons as your dog's posture shifts to compensate
  • Arthritis and joint issues from long-term pressure and misalignment
  • And in severe cases, nails growing into the paw pad, which can cause infections or require vet intervention
Some of these effects are not reversible, so prevention is key.
Regular nail trims can help! With consistent care, we can gradually encourage the quick (the vein inside the nail) to recede, allowing for shorter, healthier nails over time. This keeps your pup more comfortable, mobile, and happy.
Even if your dogs is nervous about nails, I work gently and patiently - and regular appointments help build trust and confidence.